Cashmere sweater shorts two short: "100% cashmere sweater" contains only 8.7% cashmere

Summary:

1. The National Textiles and Clothing Product Quality Supervision and Inspection Center (Guangzhou), from left to right, shows the components of clothing materials are cashmere, wool, and wool mixed cashmere.

2. The staff use the "burning method" to distinguish real cashmere.

3. The staff used fiber fineness meter to identify the cashmere ingredients. Photograph by Mavison

The test report showed that the two cashmere sweaters purchased by the reporter did not meet the standard. Qiu Weirong

The test report showed that the two cashmere sweaters purchased by the reporter did not meet the standard. Qiu Weirong

The test report showed that the two cashmere sweaters purchased by the reporter did not meet the standard. Qiu Weirong

"100% cashmere sweater" contains only 8.7% cashmere

After inspection of a brand quality certificate expired, another brand has no record, and the relevant authorities of the country have asked the Inner Mongolia Association to check it.

The cashmere sweater with the label of "100% cashmere" has only 8.7% of cashmere after testing.

Can you believe that this is the original price of 1,650 yuan, discounted 660 yuan cashmere sweater sales in five-star hotels?

“Ordos cashmere shirt big sale! The audience four fold!” When the cold winter, many people in Guangzhou received such a large number of promotional messages. There are a lot of cashmere sweater stores in the Guangzhou market, ranging from street stalls to star-rated hotels, but prices range from a few tens of dollars to over a thousand dollars.

Are these cashmere sweaters true or false? To this end, the reporter launched a one-month investigation.

(except signing)

Field survey

The so-called famous cashmere special love into high-star hotel

“Ordos Rongheng manufacturers first landed in Guangzhou for the first time in nearly ten years and held cashmere and fur sales, with a total discount of 1~40%. This month (note: December 2011) the 12th to 14th Rosedale Hotel on the 3rd floor.” Not only that, but also The reporter also saw the "Rongheng" special sale store at Crowne Plaza Shenyang.

For this reason, the reporter came to a small exhibition hall of about 70 square meters at the Rosedale Hotel in Guangzhou according to the SMS address of “Rongheng” to make unannounced visits.

Scene one:

According to the scene's sales staff, it is normal for an ordinary cashmere sweater to cost more than 3,000 yuan. "All we sell are genuine 100% cashmere, and the discounted price for a women's cashmere sweater is at least $890 or more. Even if it is group purchase or online shopping, it won't be so cheap. Especially cheap, most are not The real cashmere sweater is just an ordinary sweater."

Its on-site sales staff said: "We have shipped directly from the company. The reason why we promoted the exhibition was because the cost of renting the store's shops was too high. Although this 70 square meter hotel showroom will cost 1,400 yuan a day. However, compared to the high entrance fees and management fees in shopping malls, it is more cost-effective each year."

“We have seven stores in Guangzhou and all of them are in hotels.” At the store of the brand's Zilbin Hotel, sales staff introduced. According to him, the brand formerly worked on the Ordos brand and later established its own brand. He said that manufacturers directly buy cashmere and wool from sheep farmers. “A kilogram of wool is only a few tens of dollars, and cash pounds are five or six hundred yuan. When the supply is tight, it will rise to six or seven hundred yuan. Years have gone up a lot."

The reporter picked up a purple computer zipper cardigan, the trademark display was "Rongheng", the tag was marked "100% cashmere", the signage showed the original price was 1880 yuan, "after folding it was only 480 yuan, this is the lowest discount, wear it very Warm,” said the sales staff. Finally, the reporter bought the cashmere sweater for 480 yuan.

Scene two:

In the brand name "Yijun" brand cashmere sweater Baiyun Hotel stores, sales staff introduced products are 100% cashmere. The reporter picked up a cashmere sweater with a price of more than 900 yuan. Q: "Is it not cashmere that won't play? How can this still be (pilling)?" "Cashmere will be a layer of floating velvet, and it will be taken off with an epilator. There will be no more." The sales staff introduced.

"Why don't you go to the mall and set up a counter?" the reporter asked. "The mall entrance fee is too expensive." The salesman answered.

The reporter picked up a pink self-lead sweater on the spot. The original price was 1650 yuan. "How much does it cost?" the reporter asked. "RMB 660." The salesman said, "This is the lowest price." The reporter finally bought the cashmere sweater for 660 yuan.

Secret expert

Waste and chemical fiber blended into "cashmere"

Guan Xiaoyuan, a seven-factor minister with 20 years of inspection experience, told reporters that the so-called “doping is false” and “simply sub-standard” in cashmere products are inconsistent with the content of product identification and actual measurement. This is divided into two cases.

The first is nominal 100% cashmere, the actual measurement is less than 100%, the rest is wool fiber; the other is nominal 100% cashmere, but the measured components are more complex, containing chemical fiber, yak velvet, rabbit hair or other A variety of non-cashmere, wool fibers, this situation is worse than the first case.

Guan Xiaoyuan said that according to the processing process, cashmere fiber can be divided into plush, one velvet, two velvet, three velvet, etc. After the large cashmere products companies use the first velvet, some small enterprises have recycled cashmere after the process of fiber or cashmere The lower leg of the fiber, although it is also cashmere fiber, is inferior in fiber quality, especially the fiber length is short (about 15 mm) and the fineness is coarse (more than 25 microns or thicker). As the cashmere fibers are short, they can only be blended with other long fibers (such as chemical fiber, wool and other fibers), and such products will have serious pilling hazards.

Guan Xiaoyuan told reporters that it is difficult to accurately identify the fiber components only by hand, visual inspection, and nose odor. Therefore, it is very difficult for the public to try to distinguish whether the clothes are pure cashmere when buying clothes. At most, the “burning method” can be used to distinguish whether there is chemical fiber or not, that is, to find a piece of fiber in the clothes to ignite. If the fiber is burning, the ash is powdery. No granules, and charred odor, the product is pure animal fiber, if the burning speed is faster, the ash is granular, can not pinch ash, and non-paper non-burning feather taste, it is a chemical fiber.

However, the combustion method can only distinguish whether the fiber is a pure animal fiber. If subdividing it contains cashmere and other animal fibers, a physical detection method (microscopy or electron microscopy) is required.

Domestic cashmere quality is better than abroad

In addition, Guan Xiaoyuan said that foreign cashmere production is less, the quality of domestic cashmere generally better than foreign, domestic cashmere finer finer (usually in 15 ~ 20um). She also stated that cashmere, whether it is foreign or domestic Inner Mongolia, northwest, northeast, and other real estate, the fiber morphology is very similar, so do not have to strongly urge cashmere production.

Guan Xiaoyuan said that cashmere products are generally priced according to the weight of the products. If the same raw materials are used, the prices of the vests and jackets are obviously different. The styles are different and the price is different. The price of good cashmere products is more than a thousand dollars, so some sixty to seventy yuan Cashmere sweater can not be pure cashmere, and even two or three hundred dollars may not be pure cashmere.

Authoritative inspection

"100% cashmere" is mixed with wool chemical fiber

The reporters came to the National Textile and Clothing Product Quality Supervision and Inspection Center (Guangzhou) to test the two cashmere sweaters of Rongheng and Rongjun with the purchased signs.

In the special fiber laboratory, the reporter saw that the inspector took a representative sample of fiber from the sample and made it into an electron microscope that was magnified 500 times or more and observed the fiber morphology one by one (various animal fibers). Have different fiber morphology and fiber characteristics, respectively). The reporters observed different fibers such as cashmere, wool, rabbit hair, and chemical fiber through the testing equipment. The appearance of cashmere and wool was the most similar, but the wool appeared to be thicker, and the hair shaft was rougher. The scales were thicker and the curling angle was also higher than that of cashmere. Big.

At the inspection site, the reporter also felt pure wool products and pure cashmere products, there are obvious differences, cashmere products have a soft, smooth, delicate, light weight texture, wool products feel a little hard, lack of slippery, tired, slightly heavier weight.

Yesterday, the test report of two cashmere sweaters was released and the results were surprising.

The inspection report showed that the signage showed that the original price of a self-led sweater of the Qijun brand was 1650 yuan, 660 yuan after the discount, and 100% cashmere (except decoration). After testing, the front wool of the cashmere sweater accounted for 77.6%, 14.2% of lyocell fibers, and only 8.2% of cashmere; the latter accounted for 77.6% of wool, 13.7% of lyocell fibers, and 8.7% of cashmere. Inconsistent with the original tag tag.

The signage shows that the Rongheng brand computer zipper women's cardigan has an original price of 1880 yuan, 480 yuan after the discount, marked as 100% cashmere. After testing, the cashmere sweater was 42.4% wool, 41.8% wool, and 15.8% lyocell fiber. Inconsistent with the original tag tag. According to reports, Lyocell fiber is a kind of chemical fiber.

National Fiber Quality Inspection Center:

Many cashmere plants

Are small workshops

The deputy director of the National Fiber Textile and Apparel Product Quality Supervision and Inspection Center, Han Shiping, said in an interview yesterday that the inspection center is responsible for authorizing the issuance of the “China Fiber Inspection” product quality certification mark, which was registered in the State Administration for Industry and Commerce, and the company’s products were inspected. Only after the certificate can be obtained, and after the expiration of the re-certification renewal.

According to their investigations, the product quality certification mark related to the Rongheng Brand at Guangzhou Booth was issued in 2008 and expired in 2009. At present, the brand is an expired and illegal use. The department did not conduct relevant operations on the Junjun brand. “We called the Inner Mongolia Inspection Bureau and they did not have the relevant records of this brand” and they were ineligible. “We have asked the Inspection Bureau of Inner Mongolia to assist in the investigation and investigation of these two brand-related non-compliant products.” Director Han told reporters.

“According to our understanding, there are tens of thousands of cashmere related manufacturers in Inner Mongolia, many of which are small workshops.” Director Han told reporters that last year they investigated and punished 7 cases of quality certification marks for such imitation products in Zhejiang.

News link

AQSIQ random check: cashmere sweater short of two short

The State Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine (AQSIQ) announced on the 9th the 2011 results of quality checks of cashmere sweaters, of which there is a large gap between the measured value of cashmere products and product labeling.

A total of 109 cashmere sweater products produced by 105 enterprises in 11 provinces, autonomous regions and municipalities were sampled. The spot check results showed that the "Mondamil" clip-on men's V vest produced by Beijing Mengdameer Cashmere Garments Co., Ltd. marked 100% cashmere, and the measured value was only 10%; the production of Urumqi Haorong Textile Co., Ltd. " "Haorong" computer male V-neck product, the cashmere content is marked as 80 ± 5%, the measured value of cashmere is 18.4%. (China Network)

Store scanning

Walking Street Sale: The cheapest 39 yuan

Yesterday, the reporter visited the Shangxiajiu Pedestrian Street and discovered that genuine and fake cashmere shirts are mixed. A cart full of cashmere sweaters is marked with "Selling". Look at these cashmere sweaters, but they are still bright, but with a touch, rough work, and a harder touch. The reporter took a closer look and found that the cashmere sweater had no tag at all, only the label of the collar, which read “Ordos”. Although the cart is small, it is densely packed with several price tags: 39 yuan, 69 yuan and 99 yuan. The thinner bottoming shirt is the cheapest 39 yuan; the high collar is mostly 69 yuan; and the 99 yuan is decorated with beads or sequins.

The reporter and the seller started a dialogue: “Is it cashmere?” “100% pure cashmere, not a ball.” “How come there is no raw material identification?” “We get the goods directly from the manufacturers, and the packaging is naturally simple.”

Pavilion set up booth: wholesale price of tens of yuan

At the Guangzhou Jinhan Exhibition Center, the reporter found that a large number of cashmere sweaters rushed to "sell." A cashmere sweater with 95% cashmere price is only 69 yuan.

Before a stall, the reporter claimed to be a wholesaler, hoping to purchase a lot. "Are you shopping counters?" the stall owner asked. "Yeah, there are many shopping malls to get goods?" "It used to be more goods, but now it is not much." Asked the reason, the stall owner said that now to prevent fake goods from flowing into the mall and affecting reputation, they are directly from the factory. goods.

Before another stall, the reporter stated that he would like to get the goods directly from the manufacturers and hope to meet the person in charge. The stall owner immediately took reporters to another booth and told older middle-aged women: “To ship the goods.”

"I'm taking more, can I be cheaper?" the reporter asked. "No," said the stall owner, who claimed to be the eldest sister of Zhang. "We have already sold at a loss. The original price you received was more than 1,000 yuan."

The reporter turned around in the exhibition and found that the price of so-called cashmere sweaters sold here was basically 50-60 yuan. Some businesses claim that they sell cashmere, while others claim cashmere.

Industry insider

Brand dealers: The cost price is 300 yuan minimum

"As far as we know, most of the cashmere sweaters sold in the market are not real cashmere, nor are they cashmere sweaters of the Ordos brand." Yang Ersuo, sales manager of Guangzhou Erdos told reporters. "Our cashmere sweaters have to undergo strict inspections when they enter the mall. It cannot be very cheap."

"A cashmere sweater costs at least 300 yuan, our brand is more than eight or nine hundred dollars." An Ordos dealer told reporters. From the acquisition to the completion of cashmere sweaters to go through 50 or 60 processes, plus two years of artificial, raw materials rose about 100 to 200 yuan, "a thousand dollars sold is normal."

tips

A mature goat can only collect 10 to 40 grams of cashmere a year. Taking into account the extraction rate of raw materials, spinning and weaving process loss factors, weaving into a cashmere sweater requires 3 to 5 sheep "dedication."

Individual sellers:

Cashmere doping other

Material charge genuine cashmere

Why are all known as cashmere sweaters, but there is a huge difference in price and quality? In this regard, Ms. Chen, who once worked in sales of cashmere sweaters, revealed that many manufacturers use shoddy wool, cotton and even cotton blends to shampoo.

Miss Chen was originally a Taobao shop owner. According to her, she had sold Erdos cashmere sweaters for as low as RMB 109. At that time, it attracted a large number of buyers. She said that because of the thousands of cashmere sweaters in the mall, even a few thousand dollars, there were customers who raised her hope that she would provide quality certification for cashmere sweaters. In this regard, Miss Chen said that she can provide the authentic logo of the manufacturer.

However, according to Miss Chen, the wholesale price of the cashmere sweater she sold was only around 70 yuan. When asked about why the genuine product was cheap, Ms. Chen said that the authentic label she provided was the authentic logo of the cashmere thread. She bought authentic Ordos cashmere thread, and then commissioned cashmere sweater manufacturer, doped with other materials and processed into a certain amount of cashmere garments, and this trick "darkness Chencang", it is easy to get in front of customers who do not know how to get through.

According to Miss Chen, she used to buy from a knitted garment factory, basically wool, cashmere products. She often contacted the manager of the factory by phone to ship. The manager claimed to purchase directly from the manufacturers in Inner Mongolia, and the price was different according to quality and workmanship. Ms. Chen himself had won cashmere sweaters and cashmere skirts ranging from a few hundred dollars to over a thousand dollars.

According to the above-mentioned factory managers, they can get goods from several plants in Inner Mongolia and “would like to get as many as they want”. There is no other link between them and the manufacturers. Regarding the purchase price, he would not say anything more, only saying “Generally Customers negotiate prices after placing orders."

Miss Chen said that there are still some sellers selling cashmere cotton, which sounds like cashmere products, but it is a blend of cashmere and cotton products. Cashmere wool with higher quality and higher price can account for half or more of cashmere. However, we often see tens of yuan of cashmere cotton products. Most of the cashmere content is less than 20%.

"In addition to shopping mall counters, others should be carefully selected." Miss Chen suggested. According to reports, generally low-priced cashmere products currently on the market, even if the counters carry out quarterly promotions, the prices are almost all over a thousand dollars, or they are priced at 20% or more on the basis of the original price, and they can provide verification certificates from manufacturers; only a handful Three or five hundred cashmere sweaters are used to store goods. If there is any flaw in the production process, the style is too old. Otherwise, it is likely to be fake "pure cashmere."

She said that due to the restriction of order channels, most of the time they are from dealers rather than manufacturers, so whether the manufacturers can not supervise the OEM, this also gives each of the dealers some opportunities to exploit loopholes. Xiao Xiaojun, Tian Xin, Liu Hao

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