Superstars in the Textile Industry - Silk (middle)

Xiao Bian yesterday deepened the history of the development of silk for everyone. Did everyone feel that good things can always be passed on, sighing that silk is gorgeous and noble while being attracted by its craftsmanship? Perhaps this is the charm of good things. . Today, Xiao Bian talks about silk again.

First of all, we talk about the raw material composition and production process of silk:

In modern industrial silk, there are few hundred percent of all silk products, which are mainly combinations of natural fibers , man-made fibers , and cellulose .

The natural fibers contained in silk are mainly silk fibers, which are continuous long fibers that are secreted from secreted silk liquid when cooked in silkworm silkworms. Also called natural silk , they are one of the earliest animal fibers used by humans, including mulberry silk and tussah silk. , ramie silk , cassava silk and so on.

Silk fiber is the only natural filament fiber that has been practically used. The silk fibers are divided into various species due to their different feeding habits. Among them, there are mulberry silk fibers formed from mulberry leaves, tussah silk fibers formed from fleas, and other wild silk fibers formed from edible cassava leaves, mulberry leaves, and ramie leaves. Mulberry silk fibers and tussah silk fibers can retain the shape of the filament fibers into bundles of filament yarns. Other types of wild silk fibers can only be modified into short fibers for textile processing. Among the filament yarns formed from bundles of mulberry silk fibers and tussah silk fibers, the filament yarns of mulberry silk fibers are the most important and account for most of the natural filament yarns.

Man-made fiber refers to a non-natural fiber obtained by a physicochemical method, and is classified into two kinds of regenerated fiber and chemical fiber. Regenerated fiber is made of natural polymer compounds or its derivatives as raw materials, dissolved into a textile solution, and then spun into a fibrous material; chemical fiber is made from petroleum, natural gas, coal, and agricultural and sideline products as raw materials. Made of synthetic fibers. The addition of rayon to silk is mainly used to make silk shrink-resistant, insect-proof and easier to store.

The production process of silk is also complex and cumbersome, and the silks are presented to us through which processes.

The original method of reeling silkworm silkworm silkworm was immersed in hot pot soup, hand-drawing, wrapped in wire baskets, become the raw material of silk weaving. Pots and baskets are the original reeling devices. One silkworm cocoon can extract approximately 1000 meters long silk, and several silk filaments are merged into raw silk . Cocoon is a major process of the silk manufacturing process. According to the product specifications, several grains of cooked cocoon silk were disintegrated and combined into raw silk or tussah silk . There are many methods of silk reeling. According to the difference in cocoon silkworm silkworm uplifting and floating, it can be divided into three kinds: floating embankment, semi-depositing, and sinking. The floatation of silkworm cocoon mainly depends on the amount of water absorbed in the cocoon cavity after cooking . According to the different types of reeling machines, they can be divided into two types, namely, vertical and automatic . According to the different types of automatic reeling machine, it can be divided into two kinds: fixed grain sensing and fixed fiber sensing. The process of extracting silkworm cocoons is generally referred to as cocoon silk.

After raw silk is processed, it is divided into warp and weft, and according to certain organizational rules, weave each other to form a silk fabric. This is the weaving process. The production process of various kinds of silk fabrics is not the same, and can be roughly divided into two kinds: raw and woven, and weaving, that is, wefts and wefts are first made into fabrics without being dyed, called green silk, and then dyed Finished product. This kind of production method has low cost and short process and is the main method used in silk production. Mature weaving refers to the fact that the warp and weft yarns are dyed before weaving, and the woven fabrics do not need to be dyed and turned into finished products. This method is mostly used for the production of high-grade silk fabrics, such as brocades, taffetas, and the like. Before weaving, preparations are also needed, such as dipping softening of the sericin, concurrent filaments and twisted yarns that can improve the performance of the product, and warping and weft insertion. At the same time, due to the strong hygroscopicity of silk, it is also necessary to do a good job of moisture protection. Automatic weaving machines used in the production of silk fabrics mainly include water jet loom for the production of synthetic filament yarn fabrics and rapier loom for the production of multicolor weft-jacquard fabrics.

Dyeing and finishing refers to the process of chemical treatment of textile materials (fibers, yarns, and fabrics) , which is also commonly known as printing and dyeing . Dyeing and finishing, together with spinning , weaving or knitting, forms the whole process of textile production. The quality of dyeing and finishing has important influence on the value of textiles. The process mainly includes the processes of refining, bleaching, dyeing, printing and finishing of raw silk and fabrics.

First, refining

The silk consists of two monofilaments, the main body of which is silk enamel and the outer layer is covered with sericin. Most of the pigments, oils, waxes and inorganic salts are found in sericin. These impurities have a great influence on the printing and dyeing effect, so they must be removed before dyeing. In the long-term practice, people have mastered the characteristics that sericin is easily dissolved in hot water by the action of chemical agents or enzymes, and using the weakness of sericin, putting silk or raw silk into soap (or synthetic detergent) The soda (sodium carbonate) mixed solution is heated, and the sericin is heated and then hydrolyzed. After such refinement, the sericin is removed and the silk is removed, and impurities such as pigments, fats, and waxes are removed, so that a silk product with a pure color is obtained. Degumming is also called refining. The degummed raw silk is called ripe silk. The degree of raw silk degumming must be based on production requirements.

Second, bleach

Degummed silk fibers should be bleached to remove natural pigments. Otherwise, when light-colored, the presence of natural pigments can cause the finished product to change color. Silk can be bleached using the oxidation or reduction of various bleaches. The use of hydrogen peroxide bleaching in the presence of a catalyst has been reported. Thiourea dioxide is a reduced-type bleach, which has a low BOD and COD value, and thus can be used as a low-pollution, non-toxic bleach. However, compared with the infusible powder, in spite of serious contamination of the infusible powder, it is still widely used. The TDU due to higher prices of its application is restricted.

Third, dyeing

After the refined white silk fabric is refined, it enters the dyeing stage. Dyeing is the process of chemical reaction between dyes, silkworms, and silk fabrics. Since silk is a protein fiber and is not resistant to alkali, the dyeing should preferably be performed in an acidic or near-neutral dye bath. The main dyes used in silk fabrics are: acid dyes, reactive dyes, direct dyes, and vat dyes. The color of the dyed with acid dye is relatively bright, and after dyeing, it is treated with cationic fixing agent to improve the washing fastness of the product. Reactive dyes dyed on silk have good washing fastness. The dyeing method of fabrics varies with the type of fabric, such as silk and yarn fabrics dyed by rope dyeing or overflow jet dyeing. Spinning, silk and satin fabrics are dyed or dyed with flat webs.

Fourth, printing

After all, one color is monotonous. In addition to dyeing, people use printing technology to make silk colorful. Printing refers to a process in which a dye is printed on a fabric in a designed color. Commonly used printing processes are direct printing, printing and dyeing. Direct printing means that the color paste is printed directly on the silk fabric through a screen printing plate. It is one of the basic printing methods and can be co-printed with a variety of dyes. Discharging and printing, also known as carved board printing, is a process that uses a whitening agent to disperse dyeing. Before dyeing and printing, the silk fabric is dyed with acid dyes and reactive dyes having an azo structure, and then printed on the colored silk. After the stencil printing (discharge) paste made of whitening agent containing the destroying pigment, the ground color of the printed part will appear white after being steamed, which is called " carving white " .

Anti-dyeing printing means that silk fabrics are printed with " whitening " or " color proofing " pastes according to the pattern , and dried after being dyed. Because the pattern part has " anti-white " or " color anti- " anti-dye agent in the pulp, it will not stain, while the rest are all colored.

Fifth, finishing

After the silk fabric has been refined, dyed and printed, the final finishing of the fabric can be performed. The finishing process mainly solves the problems of wetness, wrinkles, and uneven width of the door left over from previous processes, highlights the soft properties of the silk fabric itself, and increases its intake function. The two main methods are mechanical finishing and chemical finishing. Mechanical finishing includes tentative full-length finishing, steam finishing, calendering and other methods; chemical finishing mainly includes the addition of chemical agents such as softeners, antistatic agents, fireproofing agents, sand lotions composed of soda ash and trisodium phosphate, etc. In order to achieve wrinkle-free, shrink-proof, soft, thick effect. Treated fabrics are not only more suitable for wearing, but the consumption of silk is also broadened.

Did you say that so much was attracted by the complex craft of silk? Then let's talk about the development of social silk in today's society.

1980 to 1990 decade, Chinese raw silk production rose from 36,000 tons to 57,000 tons, an increase of 1.58 times; silk fabric production increased by 2 times; silk consumption increased from 400 million meters to 1.22 billion m , an increase of about 3 times; exports of raw silk accounted for more than 80% of the world raw silk trade volume , satin also accounted for 50% up and down, China regained the dominant position in the world silk market, the silk industry has become the country's mainstay of foreign exchange earnings, built In the more complete silk industry system, silk products are sold in more than 100 countries and regions.

I. Industrial adjustment changes the pattern of silk production

1 , Cocoon production gradient transfer

In terms of total volume, developing countries such as China , India , Brazil , Vietnam , and Thailand have developed rapidly, while developed countries such as Italy , France , Japan , and South Korea have dropped substantially.

2. Silk production tends to be multipolar

There are 65 countries and regions with silk production in the world , of which there are nearly 40 in a certain scale, and there are about 10 in the world's silk production . As the largest Chinese silk industry in the world, the annual output of silkworm cocoons reaches 440,000 tons, and the highest one has reached 700,000 tons, accounting for about 70% of the world's total production . The rapid development of Indian silk production has replaced Japan as the second largest silk producer in the world. Thailand, Vietnam, Brazil, Malaysia and other countries have also attached great importance to the investment in the silk industry and adopted a series of measures to promote the development of the domestic silk industry.

The data shows that both domestic and foreign people want to seize the opportunity to earn money in their own pockets of silk, and some foreign companies have even taken many corresponding strategies to develop their own silk industry, indicating that health, functionality, personality The demand for silk products is increasing, and it can be seen that the advantages of silk fibers are being gradually recognized by modern people. Xiao Bian thinks that having the cultural heritage is the most beautiful and the most important thing to inherit. We have a long way to go in this road.

Xiao Bian today to everyone to collect the production process of silk, we have not digested it ~ then a lot to learn about the relevant knowledge of silk, Xiao Bian tomorrow will give you to share a lot of special silk products, brocade waiting for your appreciation oh.

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