[Cloakroom] that exaggerated and gorgeous gold is back in the 1980s

"It is expected that it will show up." This is probably the truest portrayal of the 1980s. Advocating power, climbing dragons and phoenixes, stepping into the sky, and making a fortune... Some people use these words to sum up that year, but don’t misunderstand, not all derogatory, and even have similarities with the identification of self in the society where we live today. . And these strong self-identifications are most directly expressed in clothing: metallic luster fabrics, large lotus leaves throwing sleeves, exaggerated shoulder lines, mini skirts, waists, and thick waistbands. The designers also added many novel ideas on the glittering basis. They were heroic and full of vigor. This kind of Miss Fu Jia’s gestures were nothing to play with. The most important thing was to “enjoy the moment”.

Isabel Marant's jumpsuit in the autumn/winter 2016 conference detonated this memory tour of the 80s, reminiscent of a TV drama that was very hot at the time, called “The Grave,” and the rich family of the high society in the play. The classic style of the female player Joan Collins is a red jumpsuit with a very eye-catching big bow on the shoulder. Unlike her, Marant narrowed the bow on her shoulders and used a tailored cut to make the trousers part of the trousers. In the selection of accessories, of course, to use unilateral earrings (this is one of the 80s Madonna's classic style), and the biggest highlight is the shoes with, without wearing high heels, but with a cold and rebellious zebra pattern flat shoes , The feeling of this series is suddenly fashionable, but it is no longer a blind one.

Saint Laurent seems to be even more extreme. The standard of rich women of the 1980s, the decorations that were blasted on the shoulders, and the skirts that are infinitely close-fitting, combined with all the metallic feelings and furs, brought a sense of materiality. . It was quite a bit like the taste of Thierry Mugler (fashion designer with unlimited gorgeous style) in the 1980s. "This is the carnival on the stage." When life and the stage are blended with each other, it is difficult to tell which is the reality. The waist, shoulder pads, exaggerated decoration, plus golden materials and rich makeup, combined with the delicate elements such as satin and lace newly added by the designer, the essence of the “immediate music” of the 80s is even Arrived.

When it comes to timely entertainment, nothing is more fun than young people. Franco Moschino, known as the humorous urchin in the 80's, has a very own set. His dressing philosophy is actually similar to the “trembling” fashion that we popularized in this era. The matching of shoes and evening dresses, the use of embroidered stitches on the back of the clothes to write the words “wasting money,” and a long dress made entirely of garbage bags, these “Bo Boy” practices, as early as decades ago. It was taken out by Moschino. With his bold designs, unexpected mashups and cynical attitudes, he quickly gained the attention of young people, or rather, his “hedonic fashion” stung the young people’s point with a provocative attitude. But it is far more than a simple ridicule. These designs that are contrary to the surrounding environment actually reflect his reflection on the era of advocating gold.

In the Moschino autumn and winter 2016 fashion show, you will find that the attitude of this brand is never reduced. After many years, it still filled with the classic elements of the 80s: punk leather and rivets, classic leather navy caps, ballet skirts and so on. This is not enough fun. When a model wears something like a burnt skirt, he dances and smokes, smokes through the smoke, and walks around in the skirt full of crystal lights.

Perhaps this represents not only 1980 but also represents this moment. Fearless, courageous and open-minded to express their own opinions and ideas, of course, if you do not agree, I do not care, this is the attitude of the clothing of this young age.

Marni as a rising star, style seems to be very bright and bright, but the model's makeup and oversized ear ornaments betrayed him. This has led us to find the shadows of some superstars, and the 1980s was precisely the era of superstars. For girls, 1980 meant Madonna to them. In addition to wearing Jean Paul Gaultier's golden-tapered corset, Madonna's punk makeup and unilateral oversized earrings are still not outdated today, and trendy girls are seen everywhere on the street. In the fashion show, this small type of single product has also been used by designers to play various tricks.

Returning to the costume itself, Marni's autumn and winter has added a very modern atmosphere. Although elements of the lantern sleeves, blouses, or fur are everywhere, but in a simplified way, mixed with new materials, the clothes become very fashionable and seem to be more Young people feel happy.

In addition to Marni, at first glance, there is Giamba, lotus leaf skirt, delicate lace, but the designer Giambattista Valli wants to express is not this, he wants to tell the moment, the 1980s New York Underground Club Dark, weird, suffocating, but endless fun. The same makeup is used to match the clothes, the boots of the super high waterproof platform is a big gimmick, which hints at the danger of this underground club. Although lace is widely used, it is not the pink or pink yellow in our daily impressions. With the use of leather underwear and increased jackets, the use of black and white lines has brought us another perspective in the 1980s.

The finale was of course the “power dressing” of the 1980s, which occurred in an era of equality between men and women. Women want to become administrative staff just like men. With the rise of health awareness and the rise of sports, women will go to fitness to maintain a better posture and have a higher pursuit of clothes that can highlight their build. Of course, there is also a greater desire for social status. Men's and women's power dresses were born in the same period. The greatest characteristics of power dresses in the 1980s were wide, shoulder pads, large jackets (jackets), and tight skirts. Must be mentioned is the strong silhouette of the king Claude Montana, his jacket is often full of shoulder pads, forming an exaggerated triangle outline. To some extent, the attitude of power dress is quite consistent. Compared with other designers, his design is not so much over-decoration. Although the profile is exaggerated, the wearing comfort is also satisfactory.

In the fall and winter 2016 show, power dresses generally narrowed the exaggerated shoulder pads, excavated more diversified clothing on the basis of the same outline, and added a lot of feminine flavors such as jumpsuits and silk for Vetements. The towel neck brings a suit, while lanvin joins the big fish tail and the brown-red flocking material is charming and handsome.

The spirit of 1980 has been able to survive so far, probably it has gorgeous and optimistic than any time. "Hedonism" has always been admired, so asymmetrical cuts, exaggerated eye-catching profiles, and all the tight clothing with sequins still appear in each season's show. It is undeniable that this attitude is really interesting. It applies to clothing and it also applies to people's attitude to life. Today's 80's style is more simple and modern, and more in line with daily life. Perhaps this is the moment worthy of our record: "1980+2016".